Fête rue Doudeauville

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montmartre0510.jpgC’est la fête, dimanche de Pentecôte, rue Doudeauville, dans le quartier de la Goutte d’Or, au pied de Montmartre. Paloma et Didier Royant inaugurent leur « Gamin de Paris », un bistrot qui réveille la tradition du genre. L’assiette est auvergnate, donc copieuse et goûteuse, avec la cochonnaille du Père Miton qui est au boudin noir ce que le maillot jaune est au cyclisme. Les produits chimico-dopants en moins. Et le parrain de l’établissement est le célébrissime cabaretier Michou au brushing de neige bleutée.

 


Le décor évoque le folklore montmartrois, sans pour autant faire dans le faux vieux, grâce aux remarquables peintures murales et sur vitre de Gabriel Szeles qui est un peu le Diego Riviera des restaus parisiens qu’il décore en s’inspirant de l’âme des lieux. Szeles est aussi un remarquable peintre « de tableaux » mais qui, en loup libertaire, préfère le secret de son atelier aux pia-pias des vernissages et le piano de sa compagne Caroline Cuny à la grosse caisse médiatique. Un homme libre, quoi. Un spécimen dont la rareté serait à préserver s’il y avait un WWF pour les bipèdes.

Photo: "C'est la fête à tout le monde, ici!" 


Ce bistrot détonne dans ce quartier aux allures africaines où l’on slalome sur les trottoirs entre les superbes fessiers des mamas en boubous multicolores, qui marchandent âprement le régime de bananes plantains,  et les étals branlants des vendeurs, qui opposent la patience commerciale à l’impétuosité économe de leurs clientes. Mais ce « Gamin de Paris » trouve parfaitement sa place dans ce Sud transplanté au Nord de la Ville-Lumière.

 


D’ailleurs, en ce dimanche festif, tout le monde se mélange Maghrébins, Africains noirs, Parisiens couleur navet, lorsque les « Petits Poulbots » en costumes (photo) font battre tambours en l’honneur du nouveau bistrot. Les gamins de toutes couleurs sont ravis, pendant que leurs parents tchatchent et photographient dans la bousculade et la chaleur d’un mois de mai jusqu’alors frileux.
Dans l’épicerie africaine d’à côté, c’est aussi la fête, celle de la patronne, qui danse avec ses copines. Hop, une petite photo ! Mais voilà qu’un grand escogriffe s’avance, menaçant, vers Le Plouc et son modeste portable : « Pas de film. Compris ? ». Mais l’épicière le renvoie aussitôt dans l’arrière-boutique : « Le magasin, il est à moi. Et la patronne, c’est moi, personne d’autre ! Alors, si vous voulez photographier, allez-y. Pas de problème. C’est la fête à tout le monde, ici ! »

 


Le soir tombe sur un personnage étonnant aux baskets d’un jaune doré pétant, le poète Rabah Medhaoui. Devant « Au Gamin de Paris », il récite, comme personne, le poème en prose de Baudelaire « L’Etranger ».


Jean-Noël Cuénod

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